Monday, June 16, 2014
Double Cloth Chambray
Last February my husband tagged along with me during the Austin Fabric Shop Hop and picked out a couple fabrics for shirts. I made him one out of the sage-colored chambray he chose in March, and now I've finally gotten around to making this one, out of Robert Kaufman double cloth. I bought my fabric from Form & Fabric, but it seems they no longer carry it. It's also available at fabric.com in a variety of colorways, though I always recommend trying to find it locally first.
The fabric itself is really interesting - the front side and back side are actually two different fabrics that are lightly connected together. It's very soft and has an open weave so it's not too heavy for summer. However, the open weave also means it frays like crazy, so you'll definitely want to serge the seam allowances. Even so, I ended up with tons of little threads all over the floor.
I used my tried and true BurdaStyle pattern from their Sewing Vintage Modern book. The only alterations I made were slimming down the collar and drafting my own pocket. I also used the "wrong" side of the fabric on the inner collar stand and right button placket. And I folded down the top of the pocket for a bit of a pop. We experimented with rolling up the sleeves to show the checkered side, but it ended up looking a bit too, er... flamboyant. Subtle is best, I think.
I know menswear doesn't get a lot of love in the sewing blogger community, but I really enjoy how all of the details and finishing touches become important when you're dealing with such a prescribed silhouette.
Of course I'm also lucky in that my husband is interested in all these little details too, and appreciates the time and effort that goes into making a garment. I can definitely understand not wanting to sew for someone (husband, father, brother, whoever) if they don't really care about clothing. After all, you know for certain that you'll appreciate the things you make for yourself!
So have you sewn any menswear lately? I'd love to see it. Feel free to leave me a link to your project in the comments!